Remember that fitting PVC-U is completely different to fitting wooden frames, and even an expert chippy would find that his experience and intuition would not apply to PVC-U, because unlike wood, plastic frames must be fitted to allow them to expand. Try to familiarise yourself with all the names and descriptions of parts, where they go, what they do, and why, and try to gain a complete overview of all aspects, as if you were 'in the game'.
It's always best to start with a small downstairs window first, just to get the hang of it all, and that should give you the confidence to tackle the more demanding sizes or any large upstairs or awkward frames.
The best way to cut old frames out is to remove the openers first, then cut through the old frame sides at a 45-degree angle, pry the sides away from the wall, and then the top and bottom of the frame should come out easily after that.
Score any indoor wall tile adhesive and grout back with a hacksaw blade, i.e. adhesive also can stick the tiles to the window frame in kitchens and bathrooms etc., which can lead to a broken tile during frame removal.
Gunning sealants:
The best way is to 'push forward' along the line you want to seal, rather than feeding the sealant in by pulling away from the gap, and straight cut the nozzle to the required size, and not at an angle as is often suggested. Practice on a couple of pieces of something held at 45 degrees to each other beforehand, and also hold the gun at 45 degrees to get the hang of it.
Image courtesy of Capital Windows Manufacturing Uxbridge Ltd When caulking indoors (water based acrylic decorators filler) make sure you pressurise your filling of any uneven gaps between the original plastering line and the new window, and use a spare packer to scrape off any excess, and then a damp cloth so as to leave a nice finish.
Don't over tighten fixings, just 'nip them up', as PVC-U windows need to be able to move, and expand and contract with the different seasons and changing temperatures.
Surprisingly for any professional window fitters reading this, a number 3 Pozi-drive screwdriver bit should always be used when doing up fixings, so often used and incorrect is the Number 2 Pozi-drive bit, used for just about everything else in window fitting, but NOT in doing up fixings.
Recommended for drilling fixing holes through the frames and into masonry is an 8mm masonry bit, and more preferably you should really obtain an 'SDS' power drill if at all possible. Such a drill will prove a godsend for all diy masonry drilling and a good quality one can be purchased for under £100 from Screwfix or tools direct, both online, and this should prove a very good investment for anyone serious at diy.
Fixings suggested for new PVC-U windows and doors are in the trade referred to as 'fischers'. The most common lengths are (in metric): 8 x 100 or 8 x 120 or 8 x 140. When fitting windows and/or doors bear in mind that the 'fischer' should penetrate the brickwork by at least 30mm.
Fixing centres:
Most systems suppliers (that is the extrusion company who supply their fabricators) specify that no fixing should be closer than 6" or 150mm of a weld, and that fixing centres should be no more that 2' or 600mm apart.
You do not automatically need to change internal window board cills, which adds a lot of disruption to décor, and it will mean losing plaster half to one inch around the board. The internal window board, often called the indoor 'window cill' is not really a part of the window, and very often the window board will have a tongue on it, which will be jointed into a groove in the bottom of the main window cill. This tongue is normally cut off with a saw when removing and fitting replacement windows, and a quadrant is normally stuck in place with caulk to make a nice join between the window and the interior window board.
Horns. That is:
The extended part of the exterior cill which often goes further across the width outdoors that the window itself. It is best if the exterior cill extends some 50mm more at each end of the window itself, it is aesthetically nicer, and also serves the purpose of ensuring less dampness might otherwise penetrate indoors.
Head drips:
That means a projecting trim over the top of the window, which is intended to throw off any water running down from the brickwork above. Nearly always needed.
Never rest glass sealed units on edge on concrete, as they are very likely to 'shell' and then crack as you handle or fit them.
It is imperative that you obtain and utilise the correct glazing blocks to suit the window system you have purchased, check with your supplier and verify this, as it is a most important point.
If your windows use a method of glazing that requires a 'wedge gasket' indoors, then it is most important not to cut the gasket too short as you are fitting it in place, which is all too easy to do. Cut it by an inch too long if you can, start at each end, and then ease it in to its location in loops. Get your supplier to demonstrate how to fit the wedge gasket because it may be second nature to a regular fitter, it is an odd thing to get the knack of the first time.
Also ask your supplier to demonstrate how to fit the beads, this is very important for you to know, and ask to try it for yourself, there is a certain 'knack', which varies from system to system.
Do not run a sealant line outside along the gap between cill and frame; this should be left bare for the concealed drainage to work.
Make absolutely certain that you seal every frame at the bottom from front to back to where it sits on the cill at the ends of the window/door frame, or water could run past the end of the frame and cause dampness to the fabric of the building walls.
"Toe and heeling" across the glass or panel, ask supplier to demonstrate the correct way to do this. To explain, imagine a side gate that would drop if it was not braced, think about it. See our separate "special article" on this by clicking here.
You should not use 240 volts outdoors, particularly if damp or wet.
Ladder sense:
Make sure you feel comfortable at heights on the ladder and that you rest the feet of the ladder on a good and level surface, and out at a sufficient angle so that if you lean backwards at the top the ladder will not fall away. It is always safer if you have someone with a foot on the bottom rung, making certain that it is secure at the bottom for your safety, or you could be at risk of injury.
Please do use dustsheets and consider of your nearest & dearest! Also remember that even small shards of glass left over from window removal can be very dangerous to anyone walking past the window, indoors or outdoors.
In conclusion: is DIY for me - and is it really worth it?
For:
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Save so much money.
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Be in control of the quality of the installation.
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Be able to do more windows on your budget.
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Maybe get lead lights that you could not otherwise afford.
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The satisfaction of saying "I did it all myself".
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Bond with your home, it's your family castle.
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Make it fun, gain the admiration of your partner and friends/neighbours.
Against:
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You will need all the right tools if you have not already got them.
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The guarantee may not be as good as if you had it all done for you.
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You will need to apply to your local Council for building regulations, with a normal fee of £58.75 in order to obtain a certificate of compliance when the work has been completed.
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There is a learning curve, make sure you have done all of your homework, read that line again.
You will also most probably lose some leisure time with your friends and family by having a go, but then again no pain - no gain.
